Our journey begins in Bari, the capital of Puglia, a city that welcomes visitors with unmistakable southern Italian character. Narrow streets lined with weathered façades, laundry hanging between windows casting soft shade, women returning from the market with fresh pasta and seafood, and children playing soccer against church doors, it’s a scene that feels both timeless and alive.
Puglia stretches across the heel of Italy’s boot, and although Matera, our final destination, is just 40 miles away, the allure of the Adriatic Sea makes it impossible not to linger. After all, if Matera has existed since prehistoric times, it can wait a couple more days.
© Alexander SpatariPostcard-Perfect Towns in Puglia
Polignano a Mare is a breathtaking coastal town perched on limestone cliffs rising 88 feet above Lama Monachile Beach. While it becomes lively in the summer, it’s an ideal destination for those seeking an authentic southern Italian seaside experience.
If the beach represents the vibrant “yin” of the region, Masseria Le Torri offers its tranquil “yang.” This former farmhouse, now a boutique hotel, reveals the chic and serene side of the Puglian countryside.
© Gary YeowellOur next stop takes us underground to the Grotte di Castellana, where a three-kilometer route leads through Italy’s largest cave system. Formed over 90 million years ago, this natural cathedral maintains a constant temperature of 62°F, offering a refreshing escape from the summer heat.
© © Marco BottigelliJust eight miles away lies Alberobello, the region’s most iconic town, known for its trulli, whitewashed houses topped with conical stone roofs that seem straight out of a fairy tale. While the Rioni Monti district has the highest concentration of these structures, staying in a romantic trullo transforms the experience into something truly magical.
The Most Theatrical City in Italy
After uncovering the treasures of Puglia, it’s time to cross into Basilicata, where Matera awaits. Set within a valley, the city is a mesmerizing cascade of stone homes layered atop one another, built over caves carved into volcanic rock. The result is a landscape that resembles a monumental, hand-crafted nativity scene.
© AlfWinding alleys, ancient churches, palaces, steep paths, and natural caves create an extraordinary setting, both dramatic and deeply historic. Matera’s origins date back to the Paleolithic era, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world.
Over centuries, a complex network of underground passages shaped the city as we know it today. Many of the historic sassi (cave dwellings) have been transformed into boutique hotels and restaurants, such as Ai Maestri, where rooms retain the organic curves of the original rock formations.
From the Civita, the city’s highest point, crowned by its Romanesque cathedral, panoramic views reveal Matera’s striking relationship with its surrounding ravines and landscapes.
© © Marco BottigelliIt’s almost hard to believe that Matera remained largely forgotten until 1993, when it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Later, Mel Gibson’s The Passion of the Christ brought global attention to the city, sparking a transformation that continues today.
By day, visitors can explore rock-cut chapels adorned with Byzantine frescoes, Baroque palaces along Via del Corso, and the labyrinthine streets of Sasso Caveoso. By night, the city takes on a mysterious allure, illuminated by soft, golden light that makes every walk feel like a journey through time.
© FilippoBacciWhere to Eat
- “Mangiare bene” (eating well) is a way of life in Puglia, one of Italy’s richest culinary regions.
- Polignano a Mare: While many restaurants offer views of Lama Monachile, a must-try is the panino al tonno at La Pescaria, made with fresh tuna, tomato, mozzarella, and caper oil.
- Martina Franca: Just nine miles from Alberobello, La Pasteria is the go-to spot for exceptional pasta.
- Savelletri di Fasano: At La Corte (Masseria Calderisi), traditional Puglian flavors meet a contemporary twist.
- Matera: For a unique cave dining experience, La Lopa celebrates simplicity, while Regiacorte offers a more refined atmosphere with stunning views, perfect for ending the day with a glass of prosecco.
© Gary Yeowell
© Leisa TylerDon’t Miss
- Castel del Monte: A UNESCO-listed masterpiece of medieval architecture near Bari.
- Polignano Cliffs: Host of the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series each summer.
- Orecchiette: The region’s signature “little ear” pasta, best enjoyed with ragù or fresh tomato sauce.
- Crypt of the Original Sin: Located just six miles from Matera, often called the “Sistine Chapel of cave art” for its 13th-century frescoes.
When to Visit
The best months to visit are May, June, and September, when the weather is pleasant, and crowds are lighter. July and August are peak season, bringing higher temperatures and more tourists.
