Jason Momoa’s near-death surfing ordeal that changed his life forever

Jason Momoa might be best known as the fierce and fearless king of Atlantis in "Aquaman," but when it comes to the real ocean, even he's learned there's no controlling its power. In a recent interview on the Aug. 11 episode of "Smartless," Momoa revealed a harrowing surfing accident off the coast of Maui that nearly claimed his life 18 years ago, and changed him in ways that still resonate today.

Back in his early thirties, Momoa joined surf legends Dave Kalama, Joe Flanigan, and Laird Hamilton for a grueling 13–14-mile paddle. The location was a stretch of ocean near Maui's infamous big-wave break, nicknamed "Jaws" for its monstrous swells, some reaching 10 feet that day.

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Seven miles into the paddle, disaster struck. "My leash snapped," Momoa recalled, meaning his surfboard was suddenly gone. That left him stranded in a treacherous zone locals grimly call "s--tf--ks" — where powerful currents and relentless waves work together to drag surfers farther out. "They couldn't see me," he said. "I took quite a few [waves] on the head… I didn't even realize I was at the outer reef."

Fighting to Stay Alive

With no board, a mile offshore, and waves pounding him, Momoa felt his strength slipping away. His thoughts went to his daughter, Lola, who was just three months old at the time. "I just lost it," he admitted.

Exhaustion set in fast. "My body stopped — I couldn't move my arms anymore," he said. "I bubbled down, and my toe hit the outer reef. I'd already given up and died in my mind."

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That single brush against solid rock became his lifeline. He dug his feet into the coral, managing just enough leverage to keep his lips above water between waves. "It was like a second chance," he said.

The Rescue and the Aftermath

Meanwhile, Laird Hamilton had realized something was wrong. Navigating toward Momoa, he reached him from behind and handed over his board. Even then, the paddle back to shore was a grueling battle.

But the ordeal didn't just end when they hit the beach. It changed him. "I used to smoke two or three packs a day," Momoa revealed. "I couldn't quit for my kids, couldn't quit for my ex. The moment I came out of the water, I never smoked again."

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Momoa says he didn't feel alone out there. In his darkest moments, he prayed to his grandparents and imagined them paddling alongside him. "I'm just literally with my ancestors," he said.

Eighteen years later, the memory still hits hard. The man who plays a superhero of the seas knows better than most how quickly the ocean can turn from beautiful to deadly, and how close he came to becoming just another name in big-wave cautionary tales.

For Jason Momoa, the king of Atlantis may rule beneath the waves on screen, but in real life, the ocean has the final say, and sometimes, if you're lucky, it gives you one last chance to swim back home.