State Dinner

Melania Trump breaks the state dinner dress code for Xi Jinping with one unexpected accessory


The first lady skipped the ball gown for Thursday night's state dinner honoring China's president


China's First Lady Peng Liyuan, China's President Xi Jinping, US President Donald Trump and US First Lady Melania Trump pose on the North Portico steps of the White House in 2026© AFP via Getty Images
Maria LoretoSenior Writer
SEPTEMBER 25, 2026 11:48 AM EDT

At a White House state dinner, the gown is practically a given. Melania Trump ignored it. On September 24th, as she and President Donald Trump hosted China's President Xi Jinping and his wife, Peng Liyuan, the first lady built her evening look around a traditional shirt-and-trousers combination.

First Lady of China Peng Liyuan and U.S. First Lady Melania Trump listen as choir students from the Hope Chinese School perform during a visit to the Smithsonian National Museum of Asian Art in Washington, D.C.© Getty Images
First Lady of China Peng Liyuan and U.S. First Lady Melania Trump listen as choir students from the Hope Chinese School perform during a visit to the Smithsonian National Museum of Asian Art in Washington, D.C.

The dinner was the main event of Xi's three-day schedule in Washington, his first U.S. state visit since 2015, and it comes four months after Donald Trump's state visit to Beijing. 

The two couples had already crossed paths more than once that week, but the dinner was when all eyes turned to fashion. Melania reportedly planned every detail, overseeing the evening's décor, down to the red tablecloths and the centerpieces of dahlias and ranunculus.

A bow as the outfit's statement piece

Melania's Saint Laurent shirt did most of the talking. It featured a maxi bow at the neck and a relaxed cut tucked into her trousers to define her waist. It was a clear departure from her signature gala style, taking its cues from the men's wardrobe. 

The Dolce & Gabbana trousers were high-waisted, straight through the leg and finished with a subtle sheen, with a peony motif. Cinching it all together was the night's most talked-about accessory: a black tuxedo cummerbund, a menswear staple that's expected to recur as one of the key trends of the fall-winter season. 

China's First Lady Peng Liyuan, China's President Xi Jinping, US President Donald Trump, and US First Lady Melania Trump pose on the North Portico steps of the White House ahead of a September 2026 State Dinner© AFP via Getty Images
China's First Lady Peng Liyuan, China's President Xi Jinping, US President Donald Trump, and US First Lady Melania Trump pose on the North Portico steps of the White House ahead of a September 2026 State Dinner

She completed the look with Christian Louboutin black pumps, with a soft, plush finish. 

Melania's beauty look followed the same polished, understated line. She wore her hair down and swept to one side, with light waves framing her face. Her makeup played up her features, with a flush of blush on the cheekbones and a deeper eyeshadow that added depth. On the lips, she passed on the classic matte in favor of a much juicier finish.

Peng Liyuan in red

Peng Liyuan and Melania Trump attend a tea ceremony in the Red Room of the White House on September 25, 2026© Getty Images
Peng Liyuan and Melania Trump attend a tea ceremony in the Red Room of the White House on September 25, 2026

China's first lady wore an elegant red gown with clean lines and a fluid drape. The monochrome design played with volume to create a full, enveloping silhouette with presence. Long-sleeved, with a slightly open Mandarin collar, it fell softly to the floor for a clean, flattering result. 

Peng added two classic touches with a double-strand pearl necklace and their matching earrings, completing the look with a black clutch finished with a gold, jewel-like clasp. She wore her hair pulled back, letting her jewelry take center stage.

Unlike American first ladies, Peng doesn't make a habit of publicizing her designers. WWD reports that she tends to wear Chinese labels exclusively, including designs from Ma Ke, the well-known Chinese designer and environmentalist. 

Melania Trump reveals surprising plans for Xi Jinping’s historic state visit© Pool
Melania Trump earlier this month in North Carolina on her way to visiting an elementary school